Just returning from a quick trip to New York (writing this on a brand new Acela train back!), so the Big Apple is freshly re-imprinted on my mind. While there, I kept thinking about a three-night trip we took to the city last summer with our children (then aged 6 and 8). It was fabulous to visit our former home as tourists. Funny how this happens: you live in a major destination and somehow skip the major sightseeing spots. (Sitting here, acutely aware of the fact that we do not avail ourselves of the museums downtown in D.C. as often as we should…!). Anyhow, I receive a DM or email at least once a month asking for the itinerary, so I thought I’d capture it in a post that is easier to reference. Here goes —
Where We Stayed.
We deliberately wanted to stay somewhere in mid-town (not typically an area I’d recommend staying) because we had plans in uptown and downtown Manhattan as well as in Brooklyn (where my sister lives) and didn’t want to fritter away our precious vacation time in transit. It’s so easy, efficient, and cheap to get around by Subway, and Midtown is where all the lines intersect. It also feels like everything is about a 10-15 minute cab ride away when you’re there. We stayed at the Peninsula on 5th Ave, and the rooms were surprisingly spacious for New York — plus it’s an Amex Travel hotel, so we were able to get a room upgrade, dining credit, and complimentary breakfasts — perks we love and used. We found the staff extremely accommodating (they also let us check in very early — big bonus). I must also say this: we drove to the city, and when the valet was bringing our car back around so we could leave, we somehow got a $200 parking ticket for idling in the bus lane (!!!). The car couldn’t have been there for more than a minute before we loaded it up. Landon emailed the hotel and, without any conversation or inquiry, they immediately paid the ticket for us. For this alone, the Peninsula has my loyalty.
Day One: Central Park / Uptown.
Arrived in city, dropped bags at the hotel, and cabbed to Central Park to take in the Central Park Zoo.
Walked north through the park to take in the sailboat pond (Conservatory Water) and Alice and Wonderland statue.
Trekked to Pastrami Queen for lunch (our kids were flagging in energy by now — lunch was just in time). Iconic. Walked back towards the Park, stopping at Sant Ambroeus for ice cream for the kids and iced lattes for us. (Not ground-breaking or particularly good, but well-placed and charming in its own way.)
Met friends to take in the John Singer Sargent exhibit at The Met.
Cabbed to hotel, cleaned up, dropped kids at our friends’ apartment for a sleepover. Went out for cocktails at Sip and Guzzle, then dinner at Pinch. Would rec Sip and Guzzle for fab cocktails, would skip Pinch. (Note that all restaurant recs are likely out of date as this was a year ago — that’s how fast things change in the Big Apple!).
*A couple of really good cocktail bars we’d recommend: Katana Kitten (faux dive vibe, featuring high-quality Japanese highball cocktails — p.s. you’re almost certainly going to see a supermodel here), Dante’s for Garibaldis (slightly TikTok trendy, but still excellent), Bar Pisellino for aperitivi, Tokyo Record Bar for the ultimate late night stop, Romeo’s for kitschy, inventive tiki and cowboy cocktails. You’ll note a through-line in several of these recs: most are not “highbrow” stops, are intentionally kitschy/retro and almost cosplaying as dive bars, but take their cocktails seriously. Landon finds most of these recs by following the top bartenders in the city and then figuring out where they’re going when they’re off service. If you’re looking for that classic high end martini vibe: Bemelman’s used to be an iconic New York experience but has gotten a bit touristy. If you’re looking for kind of experience, we recently enjoyed the jewel box of a hotel bar at The Mark. Fantastic service and a sexy, velvet banquette vibe.
Day Two: Governor’s Island + Brooklyn.
Picked up coffee at St. Kilda’s (their Chelsea location has since closed — Landon would rec Coffee Project instead) and bagels at Brooklyn Bagel and Coffee. The name and vibe of the bagel shop is absurdly generic but the bagels are amazing. There are great spots all over the city for both coffee and bagels — we chose these because they were close to our friends’ apartment in Chelsea.
Picked up our kids from the Chelsea apartment! Took Subway downtown to meet the ferry for Governor’s Island. We’d never been and had a blast. The ferry alone is fabulous! For older kids, a trip to the Statue of Liberty might be worth it, but for our kids’ ages, we thought it was perfect to see the statue from afar and then spend the day on Governor’s Island, which is shockingly well-kept/manicured/clean and perfect for their ages. They loved exploring the former prison, checking out the various playgrounds, and eating lunch at the food trucks. I honestly can’t remember what we ate, but the food options were plentiful and pleasant.
Took ferry back, jumped in a cab, and grabbed boba teas from a spot around the corner from the hotel. My daughter is obsessed with boba tea, so this was a big win for her. She’d also used all her film from her Polaroid while on the ferry so we stopped into a photo shop to restock her supply. (One of the many conveniences of NYC: you can find almost anything you need within ten minutes. Ha.)
We took a brief rest in the hotel and then took the subway out to my sister’s apartment in Brooklyn. We visited with the cousins and then left them with a sitter while my sister, brother-in-law, husband and I went out to eat at Places Des Fetes, which we thought was exceptional. Great natural wine list and I remember the bread and seasonal vegetable offerings were outrageously good. If we hadn’t already done these things, I would rec checking out Prospect Park — my sister lives a stone’s throw from there. They have a lovely Botanical Garden we’ve enjoyed visiting in the past.
Landon and I took a cab home (lazy late night luxury) while the kids enjoyed a sleepover with their cousins.
Day Three: Brooklyn + Coney Island.
Breakfast at the hotel for the two of us followed by a Subway out to Brooklyn. My sister then drove us out to the New York Aquarium in Brooklyn. (Our kids had actually never been to an aquarium before! We need to get to the one in Baltimore…) Then she peeled off and we continued on to Coney Island, stopping briefly for lunch at L&B Spumoni Gardens, which is well worth a visit. It is no-frills and packed with locals — aka all the markings of an authentic, legit pizza joint. The pizza was delicious and we of course had to have spumoni ice cream for dessert! Then we hit up the boardwalk and went on a couple of rides at Coney Island. The kids loved it.
Took the long subway home (I remember doing a lot of hangman and eye spy on this particular ride), rested in the hotel for what felt like 1 second, then went back out for an early dinner at Virginia’s — a favorite of ours in the East Village. Incredible cocktails and burgers. I’ll never forget my eight year old daughter asking for “the steak frites, medium rare.” Proud mama moment!
Afterward, we walked up through Tompkins Square Park and stopped for dessert at the storied Ray’s Candy Store. The store smells horrifically strongly of fry oil, but the kids had such a good time picking out a deep fried specialty / ice cream. Worth it.
Cab back to hotel. We put on a Disney movie and cuddled in bed. Landon and I ordered glasses of wine via room service to make use of the hotel credit 🙂
Day Four: 1 Vanderbilt + Depart!
Family breakfast at the hotel, then One Vanderbilt. It’s a big production/song-and-dance (lines, elevators, dramatic promotional movies) but the kids had a blast. Great views of the city, glass floors, the whole nine yards. I think I’d suggest Empire State Building over this for its history if you have to pick, but (!) we were accounting for transit time, and we could walk to One Vanderbilt and had never been up there before (whereas we had been in the Empire State Building). I realized on this visit that I have developed a paralyzing fear of heights — lol. I got to the top of the escalator and immediately sweated through all my clothes. A kind security guard had to escort me to a couch around the corner. Who knew you could develop sudden, late-onset phobias like this?! (You’ve been warned…)
We picked up sandwiches on the walk back to the hotel (will not mention name as we were underwhelmed) and then jumped in the car to drive home.
We had so much fun on this quick, busy trip that we are thinking of doing something similar in Chicago (where we also lived for five years) later this summer or next summer.
What else would you recommend doing with kids in the summer in NYC?
Post-Scripts.
+Some other ideas on things to do in NYC.
+On leaving NYC for Bethesda. (More on the decision to move here and on the transition to suburbia here. Life is tradeoff!)
+New York is always a shock.
+On this most recent trip to NYC, we had the most fantastic lunch at Joseph Leonard down in the West Village. Deeply charming American brasserie with incredible food. A perfect lunch stop! They open all the windows and doors and it lets the summer air in — a delight.
Shopping Break.
+OMG this new arrival! In my cart! (More great caftans here.)
+Wow — I was just raving about Geometry’s kitchen towels (our household favorite — incredibly absorbent but low profile) and they offered us 35% off sitewide with code JEN. Favorite patterns right now: bandana, gingham, and tomato!
+New colors in the classic Alice Walk wrap. A must-have for travel in the prettiest summer colors! While you’re there, treat yourself to these $95 cotton gauze shorts! Perfect for throwing on over a suit or lounging around the house!
+THE MOST COMFORTABLE travel shoe. No break-in period. Buttery soft. Wore while traveling to/from NYC. You could walk miles in these. Come in lots of great colors, but I have in the leopard. Use code JEN15 for a discount. If you want something practical but chic for a lot of traveling/exploring, these are them!
+We love these tailored shorts for dressier occasions. I have in the toile!
+Just noticed that the exact standing mat pattern I have is on 25% off. I love the elevated pattern! A few of this brand’s play chairs are also 25% off. So cute for a play room or nursery!
+Extra 60% off this fantastic sweat set. The interior is ultra-plush/soft.
+OO Loeffler new arrivals are next level: these sandals, these striped pants!
+Has anyone received her high hopes skirt yet? I saw a bunch of you ordered this and am very intrigued. It looks like it might be in the same category as THE Ruti parent (which I’m currently wearing on the train again!). Another AYR treasure that just launched: a pima cotton dress you can wear a bra with. They also released their Yaya jean in a perfect broken-in wash/color.
+My boat shoe slides! A nice, soft, supple leather. Really comfortable.
+20% off these chic initial necklaces with code JENSHOOP.
+Are any of you nightgown girls? Love the airy/breezy look of this (20% off) and this gingham (splurge). For something a bit crisper: this $108 red, white, and blue stripe. I ordered to wear as a cover-up.
+Jane Win finally restocked their bestselling faith and joy pendants. I love these coins. I have the courage one, and I wear it when I need its talismanic properties. These make special gifts.
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