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We just returned from eight days in Aspen, Colorado, and I could have easily stayed for a month and fully occupied each and every morning, noon, and night. I grew up spending my summers there, and not much has changed, so I recognize there’s an element of nostalgia here, but I’ll say this nonetheless: there is nothing like a Colorado summer, and Aspen has its unique charms to sweeten the pot.
Getting to Aspen, CO.
Most of us on the Eastern seaboard (where the bulk of Magpie readers live!) will need to fly to Denver to get to Aspen. You can then rent a car and drive four hours, or connect in Denver and fly to ASE — a charming, postage-stamp-sized airport whose runways are cluttered with private jets. We have done both. After driving from Denver to Aspen on our most recent trip, I’d suggest connecting flight in Aspen if you have children under, say, 8 or 10. It’s a long last leg, and the roads are windy (both of my kids got carsick! My sister’s kids were so sick from the ride, they had to find dramamine and drove a different, longer route back). Otherwise, it’s dealer’s choice. I will say there’s something nice about driving since you don’t need to worry about making the connection (for some reason, I always find that the timing between flights is irritating for that last leg — either too little time or way too much), and the drive in the summer is spectacular. You cross Independence Pass (the Continental Divide!), drive through banks of snow (even in July), and generally feel on top of the world. I also spotted marmot, deer, and elk on our most recent drive, and there are sections with street signs to look out for Big Horn Sheep! The timing didn’t work out on this trip, but there’s a BBQ restaurant called Smokin Yard’s BBQ about 1.5 hours outside of Denver that is supposed to be excellent and would make a great late lunch pit stop to break up the drive.
Note that you will lose phone service for a good portion of the Independence Pass drive — be prepared with directions!
Where to Stay in Aspen.
For my entire childhood and every visit since, we have stayed at The Gant. It’s a development of privately-owned condos that offers a lot of the amenities of a standard hotel (daily housekeeping, pools, a concierge, a van that takes you wherever you want to go, common areas, a nice coffee shop/wine bar on premises). The units are not luxurious, but they are comfortable. And I am obsessed with its location. You’re a short walk into the heart of town (maybe 5 minutes to City Market / Paradise Bakery), but you’re at the base of Aspen Mountain and can walk onto Ute Trail within minutes. Personally, Landon and I have fallen out of love with AirBnBs/VRBOs in recent years — so many rules, random fees, and we’ve heard too many horror stories from friends — but having access to a kitchen, common living space, etc when you’re traveling with kids makes a world of difference in terms of everyday comfort. The Gant is perfect from this standpoint: no sketchy interactions with a private owner, most of the comforts of hotel living, and lots of space. That said. If we return just the two of us (and I think Lan and I will be going back to hike the trail between Crested Butte and Maroon Bells next year), we plan to stay in one of the hotels, and would consider 1) The Hotel Jerome (an Auberge property with beautiful Western style — we used to go to breakfast here once a week when growing up, and will visit for cocktails every time we’re in town); 2) The St. Regis (probably the premiere luxury option in town); or 3) The Little Nell (an Aspen classic popular among skiiers because you more or less ski in and ski out — it’s right at the base of the lift — but would also be a great pick regardless of season because it’s smack dab in the middle of town).
What to Do in Aspen.
Our rafting guide on this most recent trip said: “If you don’t love the outdoors, Aspen is a hard place to live.” He was right. Aspen’s principal charms, IMO, are its spectacular views and wealth of outdoor activities. Below, a few of my family’s favorite things to do in summer:
+Go horseback riding. We had a fantastic experience with Maroon Bells Outfitters on this most recent trip. They have lots of different offerings (including dinner rides, multi-hour rides, etc), but the one hour option was perfect for all of the little cousins on this most recent trip. My son (5) was too young for this, but we were able to sign him up for a 30 minute pony ride, which he loved. It was much more interesting than just a walk around a paddock — they took him to a little pond and then a field, and he had a ball.
+Walk the Rio Grande Trail. This starts down in Herron Park and is an easy, paved route if you’re traveling with young children, elderly, strollers, etc. It’s one of my favorite ways to start the day, and will take you across and along the Roaring Fork. Another easy, family-friendly walk runs along Ute Drive, crosses the Roaring Fork, and ends on 82 (easy walk into the center of town).
+Go birding at Hallam Lake with a guide from ACES. (I wrote about my most recent experience here.) Be sure to check out the calendar — while we were in town, we were able to attend a Raptor Fair geared towards children that they loved and included being within a few feet of a bald eagle, an osprey, several types of owls, etc. They have lots of great nature programming and excursions and even a summer camp for kids that I used to attend (still in operation, but didn’t work with our scheduled this year).
+Go rafting. Blazing Adventures is the group to use for this. You can meet them at their shop at the base of Aspen Mountain and they bus you out to your put-in point. The guides were phenomenal and were able to tailor our ride down the Colorado River to perfectly accommodate the interests and capabilities of our 5 and 7 year old. This was one of the most memorable parts of our trip! The views are breathtaking, and the guides point out all kinds of local, natural history. Very entertaining. (They provide all the wet suits and gear you’ll need, FYI.)
+Go fly-fishing. My Dad is an avid angler (there are many stories from my brothers-in-law about the humiliation of trying to fish next to my dad — he’ll cast once and reel in a 14″ rainbow trout while they’ll be out there for hours in vain) and likes to fish the Roaring Fork, the Frying Pan, and several of Aspen’s lakes and reservoirs. Many of these are stocked, some are hike-in, so depends on your comfort level. I do remember my dad shopping at Taylor Creek Fishing quite a bit in my youth — I think he liked the flies they carried and trusted the clerks for insider intel on what the fish were eating at the moment — and would start there if you’re looking for a guide.
+Ice cream and live music at Paradise Bakery. Every night from 7-9 PM, a small concert takes place in the small square in front of Paradise Bakery! Truly romantic.
+Rent bikes. We did not do this (not big bikers in our family — yet!), but the Aspen Bikes shop on E. Durant street is always (and always has been) abuzz with activity.
+Take in the Snowmass Rodeo. We had a lot of fun here this most recent trip! Even the people-watching is fun — a lot of cowboy cosplay — and they have a decent “saloon” (bar) with passable margs and other fare. We ate dinner here (BBQ) and it’s sort of part of the experience but it’s nothing to write home about either — just FYI. Lines for food can be long, too. The website makes a big deal about limited parking, so we took two public buses to get to the rodeo from Snowmass and then found there was ample parking after all…? Take that for what you will. (At the same time, the Aspen/Snowmass buses are clean and well-run, so no complaints.)
+Take the Gondola to the top of Aspen Mountain. You can buy tickets the day-of at the base of the mountain. (Kids 6 and under are free.) Lots of fun things to do at the top — play structures, an enormous chess set, and musical instruments for the kids; disc golf for adults; and general wandering around what feels like the top of the world. There is also a small cafe, and it always feels like something’s happening up there — live music, Mass on the Mountain (for fellow Catholics!), etc.
+Go hiking. Probably one of the main draws for me — lots of great, advanced hiking in the area. My favorite trails are Cathedral and American Lakes (start at the same trailhead — both lead to spectacular lakes), Ute Trail (rocky switchbacks), and the Independence Lake Trailhead (you get pretty close to 13K feet on this trail). Weller Lake Trail is an easier hike that ends at a beautiful lake — worth considering if you’re with mixed skill levels.
+Attend a performance put on by the Aspen Music Festival + School. I have great memories of an evening listening to Chopin a few Aspen trips ago. Check out the calendar!
+Visit Maroon Bells. The most-photographed mountains in the the U.S.! Breathtaking. Note that you now must buy a pass in advance to park here. Some of the outdoor outfitters offer shuttles, too.
+Storytime at the Aspen Public Library. We loved this as kids!
+Play golf at Aspen’s public golf course. This is unlike any public golf course you’ve been to before. Beautifully maintained with spectacular views. My husband, brother, and brothers-in-law had a blast playing this course this summer.
+Visit the Aspen Art museum. Small but packs a punch – great to pop in while wandering town or on a rainy afternoon.
+Wander through the Farmer’s Market (Saturdays). The line for doughnuts is insane! We loved the kettle corn stand.
+Visit one of the incredible local playgrounds — my kids loved the one on the edge of Wagner Park and at the base of Aspen Mountain, close to Ute Trail, called Ute Playground. Next level! There are also fountains the kids (and dogs) love to run through just down the way from Wagner Park. Grab a coffee at Unravel and let the kids loose!
+Specific to the Fourth of July: attend the parade (so charming!) and run or walk in the Boogie’s Race.
Where to Eat in Aspen.
Despite spending a lot of time in Aspen, because we’ve always stayed in condos, we’ve cooked in more than eaten out! This most recent trip, my parents hired a private chef to prepare all of our meals, as we had so many people (20!) with different dietary needs/preferences and various schedules owing to all the little children around. However, these are places either I’ve been or that people I trust recommended:
+Paradise Bakery – best breakfast pastries (cinnamon roll!) and evening gelato. I’d skip the coffee. For coffee, go to Unravel or Origin (at The Gant and surprisingly good — my brother-in-law and I were both obsessed with a cardamom latte they had). Paradise opens at 6:30 a.m. and there’s usually line by then — but it does move quickly.
+Ajax Tavern. Sceney in a way that might make you think you’ll get overpriced, underwhelming food, but the food is legitimately good, and the location is fun — right at the gondola/lift. A good place for a burger, glass of wine, and truffle fries. Kid-friendly!
+The White House Tavern. This was the place to be this past trip — never without a long wait. We tried to go twice but were turned away on both accounts! Modern American fare that looked delicious. Maybe next time…
+Casa Tua. An Aspen staple — refined European-meets-local cuisine.
+Meat and Cheese. In spite of its non-descript name, great carry-out options for a picnic or lunch for a group, and a cute little restaurant, too. Very busy while we were in town.
+Prospect at Hotel Jerome. We used to come to the Hotel Jerome once a week for breakfast when we were kids, and my dad and brother still talk about the huevos rancheros.
+Cache Cache. My parents’ favorite Aspen restaurant from back in the day!
+Clark’s Oyster Bar. I walked by here several times and my mouth watered at the plateaus of shellfish each time.
+Poppycocks. Full disclosure: my husband would hate this restaurant, but it’s a classic diner spot (think carafes of coffee and packets of butter) that all the locals love. Great for families. Usually has a line.
+Cocktails: Bad Harriet at the Hotel Jerome. Such a cool, cozy ambiance with a very interesting cocktail program.
Where to Shop in Aspen.
OH the shopping…! One thing I love about Aspen’s shopping is though you will probably be able to visit these boutiques elsewhere, they are all curated and merchandised so well to the Aspen context. For example, the Ralph Lauren there carries such a specific assortment of products tailor-made for the environment, the vibe, etc.
+Pitkin County Dry Goods. It’s been around for ages and carries lots of on-trend brands, from Cara Cara NYC to Emporio Sireneuse, alongside smaller brands I’ve never heard of. This place is always packed with stylish women from all over.
+Miron Crosby. To splurge on beautifully-made boots.
+Kemo Sabe. For an authentic cowboy hat.
+Aspen T-Shirt Company (407 E Hyman Ave). You need the sweatshirt! I think this little stand has the best Aspen swag.
+COS Bar. This retailer now ships nationally, but started here in Aspen! Great curation of beauty brands, perfume lines, etc.
+Carl’s Pharmacy. Carries lots of fun novelties, toys, beauty brands, etc. Fun to wander around in. Kind of like a European pharmacy.
+Monkees Aspen. Fun, spendy, trendy kids clothes and toys. I almost bought a $70 intarsia sweater with ASPEN on the front…
+Ralph Lauren. The O.G. As noted above, an exceptional curation of their pieces tailor-made for the Aspen experience. While we were there, they put a small Ralph’s Coffee cart out front offering passersby free cold brews!
+Aspen Eclectic. An institution in our family. My parents used to give us each $20 to spend while in Aspen and we’d agonize over what to buy at this little toy shop. We took our kids there on this most recent trip, too.
+My mom and I also enjoyed popping into and out of several of the designer boutiques there — Bottega, Prada, etc.
What to Wear in Aspen, CO.
Layers! It is 45 in the morning and 75 at high noon. Most days, I’d start in athletic wear for the outdoorsy potion of the day (leggings or shorts, hiking boots, tank top, long-sleeved top, sweatshirt, hat), then switch into Birkenstocks for post-adventure lounge, and change into a casual dress for afternoon/evening. The vibe is upscale casual. I saw a lot of “cowboy cosplay” — boots, hats, turquoise belts around little white dresses — but you won’t feel out of place wearing pieces from Veronica Beard, La Ligne, or Doen that read classic Americana, but a little un-done or with a little extra interest.
What I’d pack (basically, what I did pack, or a version thereof — a few photos of me in my Aspen wardrobe here) below…
HIKING BOOTS // HIKING SOCKS // BEYOND YOGA LEGGINGS // VUORI CREW // COTOPAXI BELT BAG
For daytime adventures:
HIKING BOOTS FROM DANNER OR ON
VUORI BIKE SHORTS AND HALO CREWS
MARMOT ECO PANTS (FOR RAIN / MUD / SLEET) AND WINDBREAKER
COTOPAXI BELT BAG AND/OR OSPREY BACKPACK
DOEN DRESS // BOTTEGA BAG // TECOVA BOOTS
For afternoons/evenings in town:
DRESSES FROM DOEN LIKE THIS AND THIS
STRIPED SWEATERS FROM LA LIGNE LIKE THIS AND THIS (LOOK FOR LESS HERE)
JEAN SHORTS LIKE THIS, JEANS LIKE THIS OR THIS
BUTTON DOWNS FROM SEZANE OR RALPH LAUREN
RL FLAG SWEATER (LOOK FOR LESS HERE — 20% OFF WITH YOUROCK)
A BIG LIFEGUARD HAT TO KEEP THE SUN OUT OF YOUR FACE
POLISHED SANDALS FOR EVENING
A CROSSBODY — SAW LOTS OF THESE BOTTEGAS WALKING AROUND TOWN; LOOK FOR UNDER $50 HERE
If you’re into the full Western vibe, you will be right at home. Consider boots from Miron Crosby, Isabel Marant, or Tecovas, and a hat from Aspen’s own Kemo Sabe.
I also shared a mood board on what I’d want to wear in an ideal world on my various trips this summer here.
Final Notes / Tips on Travel to Aspen in Summer.
+The adjustment to the altitude is significant. It took us about 48 hours to fully acclimate — you’re at nearly 13,000 feet on the top of Aspen Mountain! Air is thin and we often felt dizzy and out of breath. Take it easy the first day or two (no big hikes — better to schedule horseback riding or rafting one of these days). Drink lots of water.
+My skin was so parched and dry while there — be sure to pack lip balm (I love this) and heavy-duty cream (I used this as a moisturizer).
+Paradise Bakery is the earliest spot open for breakfast/coffee if you’re trying to hit the trail early — opens at 6:30. (We did a thorough scan.)
+Sun is intense. You’re much closer to the sun! Be sure to pack sunscreen.
P.S. Three nights in Calistoga, California.
P.P.S. Crowd-sourced travel tips from Magpie readers!
P.P.P.S. Prepping for summer travel.
Great post! Thank you. We will be a group of 11- ages 8 mo. to 74– 3 kids 8 and 6 rest adults– All physically fit– Do you think we need to rent cars or should use car service?
Also when eating out do we need to make reservations?
Any other suggestions?
Thanks so much
Hi Rhonda! So glad you appreciated this post! I would definitely recommend renting a car if your itinerary is similar to ours — we walked to town a lot (most of the time) but there will be excursions where you’ll be happy to have wheels (e.g., driving to go to a hike, driving to horse back riding, schlepping kids down to ACES), especially with a baby. Even just driving around the area can be a great pastime, too — drive up to Independence Pass (the Continental Divide demarcation point!) and walk around for a bit; drive to Maroon Bells — the most photographed peaks in Northern America!; drive over to Snowmass (when we were there, there was a herd of elk moving through that exact area and you could often see them from the car!)
For dinners, I would definitely make a reservation, especially with such a large group. For lunches, it depends. Some of the spots (especially Meat and Cheese, Casa Tua, White House) will have a lengthy wait list, but others you can breeze right into. One thing that delights me about Aspen is that even a long wait is manageable. These are not, like, NYC level frenetic. And you can usually pass the thirty or sixty minutes wandering around the charming town.
xx
Oh Jen, this post almost brought me to tears. Decades ago I stayed in those condos for a month while attending the Aspen poetry program. I remember looking at the sky as I floated in the pool, going to the symphony and hearing Itzhak Perlman, and on one memorable night seeing Hunter S Thompson at the Hotel Jerome. Your photo of the quaking aspen leaves broke my heart a little.
And I live your suggestions about what to wear. I just returned from a week-long trip to the Sierras where I saw numerous women wearing dresses while camping. This strikes me as a new phenomenon. I’ll be traveling soon myself through Arizona, New Mexico, Colorado and other far flung parts as I’ll be going on a giant road trip with my husband from California’s Central Coast to the islands off the coast of Georgia. We plan lots of detours.
Any sartorial help you can provide would be fabulous. I need to know what to wear when you’re—sort of—roughing it.
I’m so glad you relate so deeply to these sights, sounds, phenomena!! Aspen has a special place in my heart.
Dresses for camping! Next level! Honestly, it sounds like practicality will reign supreme — I’d pack mainly athletic wear with your favorite pair of jeans and a few different tops for different climates…and maybe 1-2 casual dresses? What I learned in Aspen is that you really need to pack for the occasion…
xx