In the ancient towns of Tuscany, I felt the wild expanse of history, its undulations and uprootings, and equally, my insignificance. We visited a coppersmith, and I thought mainly of the way this man hammering was an extension of the gestures of generations past. You could hear his labors clanging down the cobblestones, off the walls, against the annals of time. How many other Italians had stooped in these same stony transoms, forging with hands and implements the necessities of life? Before there were planes to draw us from continent to continent, before Columbus, back when the world was flat and Catholic, and its coasts dropped off into darkness. I could hear this man’s ministry echoing against the Medieval, and beyond — past the Medicis, past the century Montepulciano itself was born. Copper: the first metal bent by human hand. A dizzying thought, and a reassuring one. I felt the same way I do when standing in the filtered light of trees: how small I am, after all, and also how connected. Like the trees I know in America, these walls of Montepulciano have stood in sun and clear pebbles of rain and heavy drifts of snow, and cardinals and chickadees have nested in and then abandoned their arms, and stray animals — humans, too — have scratched marks into their sides, and the walls and the trees have waited and withstood. I thought of my facelessness. How many other visitors have stood in my place, staring at the immense pageantry of time?
But it was not all self-abnegation. We stood admiringly before Il Pozzo dei Grifi e dei Leoni at the very top of the old town, a water-well flanked by elaborate stone carvings, and I thought too of how we are all additive, or can be. How drawing from the fount of Montepulciano might laminate my roughnesses. And also how these walls have heard not just the clanking of implements and the footfall of foreigners, but the hubbub of holidays, and the chasing of children. Even in the dark times, there was laughter, and I am sure of it. How else to explain the charm, the beauty of these places? The architecture of Italy is itself a smile. Each archway drawing the eye out to the soothing cypress and spectacular patchwork of Tuscan fields. Each spire directing me to the sun, to the peculiar light of Tuscany, to the way it lacquers the world gold.
Post-Scripts.
*If you visit Montepulciano, the coppersmith is Bottega dal Rame (his boutique seen above). We brought home some treasures from the shop.
+When was the last time you felt truly happy?
Shopping Break.
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+This Tuckernuck cashmere cardi in the perfect marigold hue was just restocked — sold through practically immediately last time!
+My MIL and I both bought these scalloped Christmas card holders this week. They sold out last year and are such a cute way to display cards! I also love this candelabra — imaging winding holiday greenery among the base? So chic. I think I’m going to buy it, too, for my holiday tablescapes.
+I need some new winter/snow boots — I still have an ancient pair from my Chicago days that are so heavy-duty they actually give me lower legs a workout. I am considering something like this (is pink too much?) or this.
+This fair isle lady jacket is so fetching!
+I can’t stop thinking about this gorgeous opera style coat as a top layer for holiday festivities…! Imagine layered over velvet. OMG.
+Speaking of velvet, I did just order these black velvet trousers (on sale!). Come in petite lengths (thank God). They are selling fast! I loved all three color options but felt black velvet would be the most versatile. Imagine with a little blouse like this for a festive happy hour!
+While we’re at Boden, this plaid dress is SO darling for holidays, but already nearly sold out (snag it while you can), and I love these wool tartan trousers. I have a similar pair from probably six or seven years ago that I pull out each season! Pair with a simple black velvet heel and white blouse or black cashmere tee and you’re set.
+I’m loving all the recent holiday launches everywhere — drawing me right into the festive mood. How fabulous are these glitzy Emme Parsons flats and these wine velvet wedges from Larroude?
+I finally gave into the hype and ordered the viral Rhode peptide lip tint and pocket blush. I got this set in the sleepy girl and raspberry jelly combo. Stay tuned!
+After a few of you mentioned cleaning your jewelry as an RWI, I think I might order this jewelry cleaner.
+Into emerald stones at the moment — love these new drops from Dorsey, and these $100-ish studs from Aurate.
+Liz Damrich launched a collab with Dillard’s and I think these feather trim wool pants are SO fun.